Pigmentation Removal: 11 Treatments To Support Clearer, Brighter Skin

Skin pigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns affecting people of all ages and skin types. It occurs when the body produces excess melanin, the natural pigment responsible for skin colour, leading to dark patches or uneven skin tone.

These changes can be triggered by several different factors, including sun exposure, acne, inflammation and hormonal fluctuations. While some pigmentation may naturally fade over time, others can be stubborn and difficult to treat.

Fortunately, there are several options available to help manage and reduce pigmentation. In this post, we’ll explore some of the most common treatments that can improve skin tone and clarity. By understanding these options, you can make an informed decision about the best approach for your skin.

What Is Hyperpigmentation?

We all have melanin. It is the pigment that gives skin its colour. However, when the body produces too much, it causes dark spots and uneven skin tone, commonly referred to as hyperpigmentation. While anyone can have skin discolouration, people with darker skin tones are more prone to hyperpigmentation since they naturally have more melanin.

Hyperpigmentation is generally harmless, but it can be persistent and challenging to treat without targeted approaches.

What Does Hyperpigmentation Look Like?

Hyperpigmentation can appear anywhere on the body but is most noticeable on areas frequently exposed to the sun, such as the face, neck, chest, hands, upper arms, and shins. Additionally, high-friction areas like elbows, knees, and skin folds often develop darker pigmentation over time.

In some cases, medical conditions can cause distinctive patterns of hyperpigmentation. For example, Addison’s disease, an adrenal gland disorder, can lead to a bronze discolouration, particularly in pressure points, skin folds, and even inside the mouth.

Types of Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation can occur at different skin depths. Epidermal pigmentation (superficial) affects the outermost skin layer and is commonly seen in conditions like freckles, age spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Dermal pigmentation (deeper) affects the lower layers of the skin and often requires more intensive treatments.

There are three common types of hyperpigmentation:

Age Spots (Liver Spots/Solar Lentigines)

Age spots develop due to prolonged sun exposure and appear as flat, brown, tan, or black spots, usually on areas like the face, hands, shoulders, and arms. As the name suggests, they are more common in older individuals as a result of cumulative sun damage.

They can be of different sizes, ranging from small freckles to larger patches. They have distinct, round or oval edges and tend to cluster together in sun-exposed areas.

While age spots are harmless, any new or changing spots should be evaluated by a healthcare professional to rule out other skin conditions.

Melasma

Melasma is another common type of hyperpigmentation characterised by brown or grayish-brown patches, often appearing on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin. It is primarily triggered by hormonal changes, such as puberty, pregnancy or the use of hormonal birth control. Melasma tends to be symmetrical and is more prevalent in women, particularly those with darker skin tones.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

PIH occurs after skin inflammation or injury, often following acne, burns, or eczema. It develops when skin inflammation triggers excess melanin production during the healing process.

It often presents as flat, darker patches that can range from tan to dark brown or even blue-grey, depending on skin type and the depth of melanin deposition. The duration and intensity of PIH vary depending on the severity of the initial skin condition and an individual’s natural skin tone.

What Causes Hyperpigmentation?

Melanin, your skin’s natural pigment, has two main jobs: it protects deeper layers from harmful sunlight and gives your skin its colour. Pigmentation of the skin develops when specialised cells called melanocytes make more melanin because of various triggers. These triggers include:

UV Exposure

UV radiation is the biggest environmental cause of hyperpigmentation. Your skin reacts to the sun in four ways:

• Immediate darkening happens within minutes and fades in hours.
• Persistent darkening appears within hours and lasts for days.
• Delayed pigmentation takes days to appear and can last for weeks.
• Long-lasting pigmentation can remain for over nine months.

Both UVA and UVB rays contribute to these changes, with UVB being more effective at darkening the skin. This is why prolonged sun exposure without protection is a major cause of hyperpigmentation.

Hormonal Influences

Hormones also influence melanin production. Oestrogen and progesterone, for example, play key roles. Higher estrogen levels, such as during pregnancy, can lead to melasma, a condition that causes dark patches on the face. Other hormones, like melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and thyroid hormones, can also affect skin pigmentation in different ways.

Skin Damage

Hyperpigmentation can also develop after skin damage or inflammation, such as acne, burns, or eczema. This happens when inflammation signals melanocytes to produce more melanin, which then spreads to nearby skin cells. In the deeper layers of the skin, damage can cause melanin to spread into the lower layers, where it gets trapped, leading to longer-lasting dark spots.

Genetic Factors

With over 150 genes that influence skin colour, your genes and skin type also determine how prone you are to hyperpigmentation. People with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick Types III-VI) naturally have more melanin and more responsive melanocytes. This means their skin is better protected from UV damage, but it also means they are more likely to develop hyperpigmentation from inflammation or sun exposure.

Diagnosing Pigmentation Issues: How to Know What You Have

If you’re noticing dark spots, uneven skin tone, or patches of discolouration, understanding the cause is the first step toward effective treatment. Pigmentation issues can be triggered by various factors, including sun exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, and genetics. Since different types of pigmentation require different approaches, a skin assessment is the best way to determine what’s happening with your skin.

Why the Correct Diagnosis Matters

Pigmentation concerns can look similar but have different underlying causes. So, a trained professional, such as a dermatologist, can assess your skin to identify the type, depth, and cause of your pigmentation. This helps in choosing the most effective treatment plan and avoiding unnecessary or ineffective approaches.

To diagnose your pigmentation issue, a specialist may:

•         Visually examine your skin under natural and bright lighting.
•         Use a Wood’s Lamp (a special UV light) to see how deep the pigmentation extends into the skin layers.
•         Perform digital skin imaging for a detailed analysis of pigmentation patterns.
•         Ask about medical history to identify potential hormonal, genetic, or environmental factors.

Effective Treatments for Pigmentation Removal

There are many ways to treat hyperpigmentation, and the best approach depends on the type of pigmentation, skin type, and severity of the concern. Some treatments require multiple sessions, and results take time, so commitment and patience are essential.

Note: Each treatment option has its benefits and risks, and the right choice depends on individual skin concerns and goals. A consultation can help determine the safest and most effective approach for your skin.

  In-Clinic Treatments

For more stubborn or deep pigmentation, in-clinic procedures may be recommended. These treatments should always be performed by trained dermal therapists to minimise risks.

1.  Chemical Peels: A chemical solution is applied to the skin to exfoliate the outermost layers, encouraging the growth of new skin cells and promoting a more even complexion. Chemical peels range from superficial (minimal downtime) to medium and deep (longer recovery), with stronger peels offering more significant results but also longer downtime and more extensive aftercare.
2. Laser Therapy: This treatment uses targeted light beams to break down skin pigmentation. There are two main types of laser therapy: ablative and non-ablative. Ablative lasers remove layers of skin, making them the most intensive option, whereas non-ablative lasers target deeper layers to stimulate collagen growth while leaving the surface intact. Multiple sessions are often required, and post-treatment care is crucial for optimal results. 
3. Microdermabrasion: Microdermabrasion is a gentle exfoliating treatment that removes the outermost layer of dead skin cells. This process helps to brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by creating a smoother skin surface.
4. Skin Needling: Skin needling works by creating controlled micro-injuries in the skin to break apart surface pigmentation and stimulate the production of new, healthy skin cells. This regenerative process makes it suitable for addressing more severe epidermal pigmentation and textural concerns.

*Skin Needling is not an exfoliation treatment, and it should not be paired with microdermabrasion.

At-Home Treatments

Before considering in-clinic procedures, topical skin care treatments can be an effective first step in managing pigmentation. Common at-home ingredients include:

1. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): AHAs, such as Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, are chemical exfoliants that work by gently dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily. This process helps fade pigmentation by removing discoloured surface cells and encouraging the growth of new, healthy skin. Regular use of AHAs can improve overall skin clarity, but they can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Daily sunscreen use is essential when using these products.
2. Retinoids: Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives that accelerate skin cell turnover, helping to fade pigmentation over time while promoting the growth of new, healthy skin cells. They work by increasing the rate at which old skin cells are shed and encouraging the production of fresh ones, leading to a more even complexion. Because retinoids can cause dryness and irritation, they should be introduced slowly into a skincare routine. They are best used at night as they can make the skin more sensitive to UV exposure.
3. Azelaic Acid: Azelaic Acid is a multi-functional ingredient that inhibits melanin production while also reducing inflammation and targeting acne and rosacea. This makes it an excellent option for individuals dealing with both pigmentation and breakouts.
4. Niacinamide: Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a tyrosinase inhibitor that helps regulate melanin transfer in the skin. It also reduces inflammation, which can prevent further pigmentation from developing.
5. Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that supports brighter, more even-toned skin and helps reduce the appearance of pigmentation. For best results, it should be applied in the morning under sunscreen, as it enhances protection against oxidative stress and other forms of free radical damage.
6. Liquorice Extract: Liquorice Extract contains glabridin, a natural compound with skin-brightening properties. It helps reduce pigmentation by blocking melanin production, preventing dark spots from forming.

Preventing Pigmentation

Preventing pigmentation starts with a consistent skincare routine and diligent sun protection. By taking proactive steps to care for your skin, you can reduce the risk of pigmentation and help manage any existing concerns.

Building a Daily Skincare Routine

A well-laid-out (and followed) skincare routine is essential for managing pigmentation and protecting the skin from further damage. Research has shown that combining multiple active ingredients in your daily routine can lead to better results. Clients should seek help from a dermal specialist to ensure the correct active ingredient combination for their concern is used. 

Your morning routine should include a mild cleanser to remove impurities and prepare the skin for the next steps. Including Vitamin C alongside Vitamin E, which provides a powerful antioxidant effect, reducing and protecting skin cells from UV damage. It is also important to include a moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated and a sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun.

Your evening routine should include a gentle oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, and other impurities. Incorporate retinoids, AHAs, or prescribed medications to target pigmentation and a nourishing moisturiser to help repair the skin overnight.

Sun Protection

Sun protection is crucial in the fight against pigmentation. But sunscreen is only one part of the equation. To maximise protection, consider wearing protective clothing, such as long sleeves and hats, especially when exposed to the sun for extended periods.

Sunscreen Application Guidelines:

•         Apply broad-spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen every day, even on cloudy days.
•         Use enough sunscreen to adequately cover your face and neck.
•         Reapply every two hours when outdoors, or more frequently if swimming or sweating.
•         Choose products that protect against both UV and visible light, as visible light can also contribute to pigmentation.

Your Path to Clearer, Brighter Skin

Hyperpigmentation can be a persistent concern, but with the right approach, it’s possible to manage and reduce its appearance. However, it is important to tailor your approach to your skin type and the severity of your pigmentation.

Alongside these treatments, a solid skincare routine that includes sun protection is crucial to prevent further pigmentation. Remember, when it comes to managing hyperpigmentation, prevention is just as important as treatment.

If you’re ready to take the next step, Esteem Clinic is here to help. As leaders in advanced aesthetic techniques, we use proven scientific approaches and medical-grade skincare to help you achieve your skin goals. With two locations across the Gold Coast and Brisbane, book your consultation today.