After the age of 30, the body begins to lose approximately 1% of its collagen each year. This gradual decline in collagen reduces skin elasticity and contributes to the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. In addition to the natural ageing process, lifestyle factors such as sun exposure, poor sleep, smoking, and inadequate skincare can further accelerate their appearance.
Because the skin beneath your eyes is the thinnest and most sensitive on the face, it’s especially important to approach treatment with care. From clinical treatments to at-home solutions, there are a range of options available, each suited to different needs and skin types.
In this article, we’ll take a closer look at the most common under-eye wrinkle treatments available today, helping individuals make informed decisions about how to care for and maintain the skin around their eyes.
What are Under-eye Wrinkles?
Under-eye wrinkles are fine lines and creases that develop in the delicate skin beneath and around the eyes. While they are a natural part of the ageing process, they tend to appear earlier and more prominently due to the unique structure of the skin in this area.
Under-eye wrinkles typically fall into two main categories, dynamic and static, each requiring different treatment approaches.
- Dynamic wrinkles are expression-based lines that appear only when facial muscles are in use, such as when smiling, squinting, or frowning. These lines, often seen as crow’s feet at the corners of the eyes, disappear when the face is at rest. However, with repeated facial movement over time, dynamic wrinkles can gradually become permanent.
- Static wrinkles, on the other hand, are visible even when the face is completely relaxed. These result from long-term structural changes in the skin, such as loss of elasticity, thinning, and damage from environmental exposure. Because they are more deeply set, static wrinkles often require more intensive treatment methods.
How Ageing Affects the Eye Area
The skin begins to lose its ability to renew and repair itself from around the age of 25. Although this affects the entire body, the signs are often most noticeable around the eyes. Many individuals start seeking under-eye wrinkle treatments in their 40s, with more significant changes typically occurring after age 65.
Ageing affects the under-eye area in several key ways:
- Cell turnover slows down, leading to a duller and less resilient appearance
- The skin becomes thinner and more fragile
- Collagen and elastin fibres break down, reducing elasticity and firmness
- The skin’s ability to retain moisture and produce natural oils diminishes
- Healing processes are slow, making the skin more prone to visible damage
These changes all contribute to the development and deepening of under-eye wrinkles over time.
Why the Under-Eye Skin Is Especially Vulnerable
The skin under the eyes is particularly prone to wrinkling because it is up to five times thinner than the skin on other parts of the face. It also contains fewer oil glands and less underlying fat, both of which are essential for keeping skin supple and hydrated.
This delicate skin lies directly over the eye socket, offering little structural support or cushioning. Studies have shown that the cells in this region age more quickly, and the DNA within these cells has a reduced capacity for repair. As a result, the under-eye area tends to show signs of ageing earlier and more prominently than other parts of the face.
What Causes Under-Eye Wrinkles?
Under-eye wrinkles don’t develop overnight. They’re the result of several interconnected factors, both internal and external, that work together over time to weaken the skin’s structure and reduce its ability to repair itself. Understanding these causes can help in selecting the most appropriate and effective treatment options.
1. The Natural Ageing Process
One of the most significant contributors to under-eye wrinkles is the natural ageing process. As the body ages, skin cell turnover slows and collagen production declines. Collagen is a key protein that gives skin its structure and firmness, and when it breaks down, the skin loses its support system, leading to sagging, fine lines, and deeper creases.
The under-eye area is particularly vulnerable because this region already contains lower levels of collagen and elastin to begin with. As these structural proteins diminish, the skin becomes thinner, less elastic, and more prone to wrinkling.
2. Sun Exposure and UV Damage (Photoageing)
Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays significantly accelerates the ageing of under-eye skin. UV rays break down collagen and elastin fibres, triggering the release of enzymes such as metalloproteinase. While these enzymes aim to repair damage, they often destroy healthy collagen in the process, leading to disorganised, weakened tissue.
The under-eye area has little natural protection against the sun and is frequently overlooked when applying sunscreen. Studies estimate that up to 90% of visible skin ageing, including wrinkles, can be attributed to sun exposure.
3. Facial Expressions and Muscle Movement
Every smile, squint, or frown causes facial muscles to contract, creating temporary lines in the skin. Over time, repeated movement, particularly from the orbicularis oculi muscles around the eyes, leads to the development of expression lines, such as crow’s feet.
While youthful skin quickly bounces back, ageing skin that has lost its elasticity can cause these once-temporary lines to become static wrinkles that remain even when the face is at rest.
4. Lifestyle Factors: Smoking, Alcohol, and Eye Strain
Lifestyle choices play a critical role in the formation and progression of under-eye wrinkles.
- Smoking contributes to premature ageing by reducing blood flow to the skin, depleting oxygen and vital nutrients, as well as increasing oxidative stress that damages collagen and elastin.
- Excessive alcohol consumption dehydrates the skin, making wrinkles appear more pronounced. Alcohol also impairs skin repair and accelerates ageing.
- Screen time can indirectly contribute by increasing eye strain and squinting, leading to the formation of fine lines over time.
5. Sleep Position and Mechanical Pressure
How a person sleeps can also impact under-eye wrinkle development. Pressing the face into a pillow when sleeping on the stomach or side creates mechanical pressure that leads to sleep lines. Over time, these lines can become permanent, particularly in areas with thinner skin like under the eyes.
6. Dehydration, Rubbing, and Genetic Factors
Other factors that contribute to under-eye wrinkles include:
- Rubbing or tugging at the eyes, which damages the fragile skin
- Inadequate hydration, which reduces skin elasticity and plumpness
- Genetics, which influence how early and prominently wrinkles appear
4 Topical Treatments You Can Try At Home
There are several effective topical treatments available that can be used at home to reduce the appearance of under-eye wrinkles. These topical treatments can be a valuable first step in manageing under-eye wrinkles, especially when used consistently as part of a daily skincare routine. While results may vary depending on skin type and the depth of wrinkles, many users experience improvements in skin texture, hydration, and firmness over time.
1. Retinol and Retinoids
As a derivative of vitamin A, retinol works by stimulating collagen production, improving skin cell turnover, and smoothing fine lines.
Studies have shown that retinol not only promotes new collagen formation but also inhibits the action of metalloproteinases, the enzymes that break down existing collagen. For the sensitive under-eye area, low concentrations (typically 0.01%–0.1%) formulated specifically for the eyes are recommended to minimise irritation. These products are best applied at night, as retinol can increase sun sensitivity.
2. Peptides and Hyaluronic Acid
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. One clinically studied peptide, KTTKS (a pentapeptide), has been shown to significantly reduce fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes by improving the activity of dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen synthesis.
Hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the skin, is effective at attracting and retaining moisture. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has been shown to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness, particularly when used over a 60-day period. Look for products that combine peptides and hyaluronic acid to simultaneously support skin structure and maintain optimal moisture levels.
3. Vitamin C and Antioxidants
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps neutralise free radicals, protect the skin from environmental damage, and stimulate collagen production. Daily use of a 3% vitamin C formulation is shown to have increased the density of dermal papillae (structures that support the skin) and improved overall skin texture.
For best results, look for stable formulations of L-ascorbic acid at concentrations around 5%. These products can also help brighten dark circles and reduce uneven pigmentation in the under-eye area. Antioxidant-rich serums often include other beneficial compounds such as vitamin E, niacinamide, or ferulic acid for enhanced protection and efficacy.
4. Hydrating Eye Creams and Oils
Dryness can make fine lines more noticeable, especially under the eyes, where the skin lacks oil glands and natural moisturisation. Hydrating eye creams help improve the skin barrier and maintain moisture levels.
The most effective formulations contain a mix of:
- Humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which draw moisture into the skin
- Emollients and occlusives like ceramides, squalane, or plant oils, which prevent water loss and protect the skin barrier
These products should be applied gently around the orbital bone morning and night. Patting the product in with a fingertip helps reduce friction and ensures even absorption.
4 Professional Treatments For Deeper Wrinkles
While at-home skincare can improve the appearance of fine lines, deeper under-eye wrinkles often require professional intervention for more noticeable and lasting results. Professional treatments target underlying causes, such as muscle activity, volume loss, and reduced collagen production, that topical products alone may not fully address. Here are four evidence-based options commonly used by aesthetic practitioners.
1. Wrinkle Treatments
Wrinkle reduction works by temporarily relaxing the facial muscles responsible for dynamic wrinkles (the lines that form when smiling, squinting, or frowning.) These treatments can be effective for crow’s feet at the outer corners of the eyes.
2. REJURAN: Restoring Volume and Smoothness
As we age, the under-eye area can appear sunken or hollow due to volume loss. Treatments like REJURAN® can be used in the tear troughs, the area between the lower eyelid and the upper cheek.
REJURAN® is a cosmetic treatment designed to repair damaged skin and improve elasticity. It works by delivering polynucleotides (PDRN) (salmon-derived DNA fragments that have regenerative properties) directly into the skin through a series of micro-injections. These stimulate natural collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production, enhance skin texture, and reduce inflammation.
3. Laser Resurfacing and Skin Needling
Both laser resurfacing and microneedling are designed to improve skin texture and elasticity by stimulating collagen production.
- Laser Resurfacing uses controlled light energy to remove the top layers of skin while heating deeper layers to promote collagen regeneration. It’s particularly effective for fine to moderate wrinkles.
- Skin needling involves creating micro-injuries in the skin using fine needles, which triggers a natural healing response and collagen production.
4. Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy
PRP therapy uses a patient’s own blood to harness growth factors that aid in healing and tissue regeneration. After the blood is drawn and processed, concentrated platelets are injected into the under-eye area.
PRP can improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and lighten dark circles.
Daily Habits That Help Prevent Under-Eye Wrinkles
While no routine can completely stop the natural ageing process, certain daily habits can slow the development of under-eye wrinkles and fine lines. Because this area of skin is especially thin and sensitive, small adjustments in skincare and lifestyle can make a noticeable difference over time.
Use Sunscreen Around the Eyes
Consistent sun protection is an effective way to prevent premature wrinkles, particularly in the under-eye area. The skin here is especially vulnerable to UV damage, which breaks down collagen and accelerates ageing.
Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily, even on overcast days. For the delicate eye area, mineral-based sunscreens are recommended, as they are less likely to cause irritation or stinging. To further protect against squint-induced wrinkles, wear UV-protective sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat when outdoors.
Avoid Rubbing or Pulling the Skin
Rubbing, pulling, or stretching this area, especially when removing makeup or applying skincare, can weaken the skin’s structure over time. Instead, use a gentle tapping motion with your ring finger to apply eye creams or serums. This approach reduces mechanical stress and helps maintain the skin’s elasticity.
Get Enough Sleep and Consider a Silk Pillowcase
Adequate sleep (ideally 7 to 9 hours per night) is essential for healthy skin. During deep sleep, the body enters a “repair mode”, supporting collagen production and overall skin regeneration. Lack of rest can lead to visible signs such as puffiness, dark circles, and increased wrinkle depth.
Using a silk pillowcase can also support skin health by reducing friction on the face. Studies show silk creates less drag than cotton, allowing the skin to glide more easily and helping to prevent sleep lines from forming overnight.
Stay Hydrated and Eat Antioxidant-Rich Foods
Hydration plays a vital role in maintaining the skin’s plumpness and elasticity as dehydration can make fine lines, especially around the eyes, appear more pronounced.
A balanced diet rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids also contributes to skin health:
- Vitamin C (found in citrus, berries, and leafy greens) helps boost collagen synthesis
- Vitamin A and E support skin cell renewal and protection
- Omega-3 fatty acids in fish, walnuts, and flaxseeds help maintain the skin’s moisture barrier
- Polyphenols in green tea, dark chocolate, and colourful vegetables reduce inflammation and oxidative stress
How to Choose The Right Treatment For You
Choosing the best approach to treat under-eye wrinkles depends on several factors, including the severity of the wrinkles, budget, lifestyle, and personal preferences. Understanding the differences between home-based and clinical treatments, assessing your wrinkle type, and considering potential risks will help you make an informed decision.
Choosing Between Home and Clinical Treatments
At-home topical products and remedies are typically more accessible and cost-effective, making them a practical first step. These treatments can be especially effective for mild wrinkles and early signs of ageing, improving skin texture and hydration over time.
Professional treatments, however, often deliver faster, more noticeable, and longer-lasting results. Clinical procedures, lasers, and resurfacing, may require recovery time and follow-up appointments. If you have moderate to severe wrinkles or volume loss, these options are generally more appropriate.
Your budget and availability should also be factored in. While home treatments require ongoing commitment, clinical treatments tend to be less frequent but involve higher upfront costs.
Assessing Wrinkle Type: Static vs. Dynamic
Understanding whether your wrinkles are dynamic or static is key to choosing the right treatment:
- Dynamic wrinkles appear only during facial expressions (like smiling or squinting) and respond well to wrinkle reduction treatments, which can relax the muscles causing these lines.
- Static wrinkles are visible even when your face is relaxed and usually require treatments that restore volume or improve skin texture, such as REJURAN, laser resurfacing, or a combination of therapies.
Older wrinkles, especially those that have been present for several years, are typically more resistant to treatment than newer lines, so early intervention often yields better outcomes.
Understanding Risks and Side Effects
Every treatment carries some risk of side effects or complications, and it’s important to be aware of these before proceeding.
- Common, mild side effects include bruising, redness, swelling, and discomfort. Rare but serious complications include infection, inflammation, and tissue damage if the filler inadvertently blocks blood vessels.
- Some treatments near the eyes may occasionally affect lymphatic drainage, potentially leading to temporary under-eye puffiness or bags.
Reading patient information and discussing potential risks with your nurse or therapist helps ensure you are fully informed.
The Benefits of Professional Advice
These professional treatments offer targeted solutions for under-eye wrinkles that extend beyond the reach of over-the-counter skincare. A consultation with a qualified aesthetic practitioner is essential to determine the most suitable approach based on the depth of wrinkles, skin type, and individual goals.
Esteem Clinic is recognised as a leader in advanced aesthetic treatments, combining clinical expertise with evidence-based care. With decades of experience and multiple awards for excellence in cosmetic practice, they remain at the forefront of non-surgical skin rejuvenation.
*A qualified healthcare professional must make the final decision on suitability and treatment planning, based on individual assessment and clinical judgment.
Key Takeaways
Treating under-eye wrinkles effectively depends on understanding the type and severity of the wrinkles, as well as the underlying causes. The delicate skin around the eyes is particularly vulnerable to collagen loss, sun damage, repeated facial movements, and lifestyle influences, all of which contribute to wrinkle formation over time.
Treatment options range from simple at-home topical solutions to advanced clinical procedures. Deeper, long-standing wrinkles often require professional intervention. Your ideal treatment plan will depend on factors like your specific wrinkle type, your budget, available time, and comfort with potential side effects.
It’s important to set realistic expectations: no treatment can fully stop the natural ageing process or completely erase wrinkles. However, many approaches can significantly improve the appearance of under-eye wrinkles. A combination of preventive daily habits, consistent home care, and tailored professional treatments typically delivers the best results.
Esteem Clinic offers several treatments and medical-grade skincare to help clients reduce the appearance of under-eye wrinkles. With over three decades of expertise and recognition as “Best Aesthetic Practice” at the prestigious My Face My Body Awards for three consecutive years, Esteem Clinic is a trusted choice for safe, effective under-eye wrinkle treatments in the Gold Coast and Brisbane areas.
